The Crispy Basil Thai Burger – with the top part of the bun removed to expose a fried egg – at Black Ruby in Cambridge. (Photo: Tom Meek)
New to the Porter Square neighborhood is Black Ruby, a Thai burger joint in the storefront where old friend Chalawan used to serve up pan-Asian nouvelle. The fact that one creative spin on Asian cuisine replaces another feels apt, and the new spot – still in soft opening mode – lands solidly in the fine-casual category.
Burgers are its jam, but there are also Thai plays on spaghetti (that’s right, the classic Italian past, not a rice noodle), dumplings and shrimp rolls. The pièce de resistance is a plant-based burger you can sub in for any beef-based option. It’s a combination of chickpeas, tofu, black beans and mushrooms. If that sounds like the basic garden-style bean burger you’d get at any gastropub or even a Dr. Praeger’s patty right out of the box, think again. It’s meaty in taste and texture, and, in my estimation, blows away products sold by the Beyond and Impossible brands. I literally thought I was eating beef as part of my meal, but it was lean, smooth and clean and without the fat or the guilt. For those vegetarians who don’t need (or want) a replacement, this is a whole other game that defies comparison and deserves to be indulged – otherwise, you’re missing out.
My indulgence was with the Crispy Basil Thai Burger, and wow.
This is a busy, messy stack with sautéed mushrooms, crisp basil leaves, a rich brown Thai basil sauce, American cheese (unassuming and ever underappreciated) and a perfectly fried egg. It comes on a brioche sourdough bun – the best of all worlds – made fresh daily at Mahalab, the Mediterranean bakery next door, marking a further successful stretching of cuisine boundaries.
Your hands are certain to get messy, but after one bite, you won’t care; ask for extra napkins and have at it. The combination of elements was arranged with astute care and prideful diligence – the staff was constantly peeking their head out of the kitchen to read diners’ faces.
Black Ruby’s messy but enjoyable tom yum shrimp roll. (Photo: Tom Meek)
I also tried the chicken satay sandwich and tom yum shrimp roll and was more than impressed. The spin on the classic Thai skewer staple was a creamy peanut sauce-drizzled grilled chicken breast on the brioche bun with crisp marinated fresh carrots and cucumbers. Spot on. Then there’s that shrimp roll, plump sautéed prawns and mushrooms heaped high in a pillowy sub roll with arugula, fresh cilantro, the salmon roe called ikura and a rich, thick tom yum mayo sauce. (The concept behind tom yum – more known as a sweet and sour soup – includes a combo of lemongrass, chilies, galangal root, shallots, lime, fish sauce and a few other ingredients, in this case blended with mayonnaise to give it a creamy thickness.) You could think of it as a po’boy, but better. It’s unique, to be sure. About the only thing close to it I’ve had was the sautéed shrimp bánh mì at The Hourly in Harvard Square. Both were fantastic, but The Hourly disappointingly pulled that lunchtime pleasure from its lunch menu, so for succulent shrimp in a two-handed hero to Ruby you must go.
I will say: It’s messier than that basil burger, but again worth the extra napkins and a run to the restroom for a wash-up before dessert, which is either mango rice or an ice cream sandwich in one of those artisanal buns from Mahalab.
The owners of Chalawan had revamped the interior from the old (and tired) Pho House that preceded it, so Black Ruby owner Monson Theerapanont and creative director Pam Kamolnithi didn’t have much to do before opening. They have smartly turned the takeout counter area into a six to eight-seat bar that creates more dining space and an easy slide-in for solo diners. And, yes, they serve beer, wine and beyond, and are open for lunch and dinner.
Regardless of your diet– carnivore, flexitarian or vegetarian – I can’t stress enough to try the plant based option. I need to sample it a few more times, but given the prelim, it may be the best burger alternative I’ve bitten into.
Black Ruby Thai Craft Burger and Dining, 1790 Massachusetts Ave., Porter Square, Cambridge
Cambridge writer Tom Meek’s reviews, essays, short stories and articles have appeared in WBUR’s The ARTery, The Boston Phoenix, The Boston Globe, The Rumpus, The Charleston City Paper and SLAB literary journal. Tom is also a member of the Boston Society of Film Critics and rides his bike everywhere.
